Norway Part I

LEROY CAN’T BELIEVE NOBODY WANTS TO SEE HIS PASSPORT!

The Fjord Line high-speed catamaran from Hirtshals, Denmark to Kristiansand, Norway is huge with capacity for over 400 cars and 1200 passengers and although we weren’t aware at the time, a state-of-the-art 51,000 horsepower behemoth that only came into operation earlier this year.  As well as doubling previous capacity, it has reduced the passage time by a third to just over two hours and judging by the 400 or so vehicles waiting to board looked to be the popular choice over the alternative ferry line.  We had indicated that we had a dog with us when we booked the tickets on-line and, as requested had updated Leroy’s rabies jabs and obtained a certificate to show that he had recently been administered with tapeworm tabs.  Despite being told to present him at the pet reception on arrival, we were waved through the barrier and onto the ferry with all the other vehicles without any checks and no paperwork was asked for.   This was obviously a big disappointment for Leroy as he had been hoping to show off his new Danish passport!  

fridafjord, our first view of norway

Everyone was loaded with typical Scandinavian efficiency and we departed bang on time but just 15 minutes later an announcement was made that one of the engines wasn’t working and sailing time would therefore be the same as it had always been – just over three hours.  Good news for us as we had paid extra to gain access to the lounge where first time ferry users were invited to sit right at the front of the vessel behind the floor to ceiling windows with access to an excellent free buffet.  Sitting in prime position we were able to fully appreciate the grey sea, grey sky and grey sea mist and on arrival into Kristiansand we drove down the ferry ramp into an absolute deluge of rain.  It was so torrential that we were barely able to see through the windscreen, added to which the traffic was a nightmare with various road works and long queues stretching out in every direction.  Feeling a bit disoriented we joined the traffic and headed west towards Flekkefjord from where we would follow the Jaeren coastal route 130km to Bore before heading inland.  Norway has 18 scenic routes that extend throughout the country and for want of a better plan we would be making our way north utilising as many of these routes as possible. 

flekkefjord

Naively, we were expecting a straight-forward drive along the coast before having to contend with the narrow, steep, mountain roads that we had been warned about numerous times by the Danes.  How wrong were we?!  We were only 10 minutes away from the ferry and already navigating a thin windy road that appeared to be making its way up the side of a mountain.  The weather wasn’t letting up and we drove for just over an hour before calling it a day and pulling into a tiny lay-by which appeared to be in the middle of nowhere.  It was dark, wet and miserable with visibility almost zero due to the heavy clouds and mist and we were a bit dismayed when a sprinter van arrived and against all the odds managed to squeeze itself alongside us.  As is often the case, everything looked a lot better in the morning and we crawled out of Bob to find that we were parked overlooking the glorious Fridafjord, an expanse of bright blue water sparkling away beneath a glorious sunny sky.  It was a great opportunity to get the drone up as we had breakfast with our German neighbours, a young couple making the most of four-weeks paternal leave by touring southern Norway. 

Norway is over 1,600 km long, the longest country in Europe and if it was a piece of wood hinged by a nail driven through the centre of Oslo and you swung it around, it would reach all the way to Sicily in southern Italy.  It is also one of those countries with a right to roam law which gives everyone access to public land for a variety of activities, including overnight camping.  An ideal place to be if your home is your vehicle and too much of your time is spent looking for somewhere to park up for the night. We had also heard a rumour that there were free showers and washing machines on offer in Flekkefjord which seemed unlikely but as we were going there anyway….

….our journey the following day continued in much the same vein, as Bob twisted and turned along the steep narrow roads and we started to grasp the reality of driving through a country of which about two-thirds is mountainous.  Although narrow and winding, the roads are in very good condition and judging from the large number of motorcycles around, a bikers dream.  Taking twice as long as anticipated, we eventually arrived at Flekkerfjord, a pretty coastal town with cobbled streets, well-kept timbered houses and marinas full of white bobbing boats.  The town is quite small and it didn’t take us long to find the tourist information and free facilities, we couldn’t believe our luck, not just showers but a Miele washing machine and tumble drier as well!  After a rather gloomy start in Norway things were definitely looking up and we made full use of the amenities whilst chatting to other travellers who had the same idea.  There was a great little bakery close by where we bought some coffee and lunch which confirmed that as expensive as we found Denmark, Norway was in a whole different league!

But, WOW, it must surely be one of the most beautiful countries in the world and is marked by the UN as one of the best countries to live due to its high living standards and lifestyle.  With a moderate population of 5.3 million there is plenty of space amongst the most spectacular scenery of snow-capped mountains, beautiful deep blue fjords with their mirror surfaces and over 50,000 islands. The mountains are not particularly high, Galdhøpiggen at 2,469 m is the highest, but they are often very steep, so steep in fact that some have never been climbed (National Geographic). The vast mountain ranges that typically run north-south are broken up by the valleys and fjords that were created when the glaciers melted at the end of the last ice age over 11,000 years ago. Several of the ranges have road and railroad passes which are typically closed once the snow arrives which is usually around October-November until May. With such an amazing playground, it comes as no surprise that Norwegians love the outdoors and, as well as a strong focus on winter sports, particularly cross-country skiing, hiking is also huge.

mission : impossible fallout

Probably the best known and one of the most popular hikes is Preikstolen (Pulpit Rock) which achieved global fame after its appearance in Mission: Impossible Fallout, you know, the one where Ethan is seen clinging onto a sheer rock face by his fingernails?  This hike, that finishes on a flat plateau of granite rock overlooking the beautiful Lysefjord, is very doable which attracts a motley assortment of people with a wide-ranging approach to clothing and fitness levels.  Some are seen with the best hiking gear that money can buy, totally kitted out and prepared for any natural disaster that may occur, whilst others take a more casual approach.  We saw pink socks with matching pompoms on the back and one young woman wearing those white slippers found in many hotels, but I think the prize would have to go to the large lady in turquoise flared satin pants with matching push-up bra!  As we slogged our way uphill we were often overtaken by those extremely fit super-humans progressing at a steady run and we in turn passed those courageous individuals who gave the impression that today was the day to start their previously non-existent fitness regime, a decision that had them gasping for breath as they strived to reach the 604m high, flat clifftop.  As a general guide the hike takes around four-hours return plus however long you have to wait in line to get your Instagram shot, which for us was about 30 minutes.  We had heard of people queuing for up to three hours and figure this is yet another indicator that tourist numbers are still low which is making it a great time to travel.

view from cabin at lysebotn

Once Pulpit Rock has been ticked off, the next hike on the list would probably be Kjeragbolten which also finishes at a notable spot suspended above the Lysefjord but takes a bit more effort to complete.  Looking on the map if would be a quick drive from one to the other except there aren’t any connecting roads which meant that we had to go back across the fjord on the Lauvvik/Oanes ferry and drive along the other side before crossing over a mountain pass in order to reach Oygardstol, the car park and Eagles Nest restaurant that is at the beginning (and end) of the hike.  By the time you reach this point you have just about completed 300° of a circle and are almost back where you started.  It took us most of the day to make our way around and we ended up camping in a small lay-by just below Oygardstol ready to make an early start the following morning.  Kjerag is the name of the mountain to be climbed and Kjeragbolten the infamous boulder that is wedged above a 984 m abyss and the hike to get up there is challenging.  It is more of a climb than a hike as the terrain is steep granite mostly navigated with the use of chains and, hopefully, grippy footwear.  This time there was no wait for that all important photo which could possibly be attributed to a few things – 1. only about 25% of hikers opt to step out onto the rock and claim their moment of glory, 2. the mountain was generally quiet with only a few hikers making the climb and 3. however scary you think it looks in the photos it is way more scary in reality.  Leroy and I offered to act as official photographers whilst Ian, utilising a rare surge of adrenalin, walked around the extremely narrow open-sided ledge before stepping out onto the top of the famous bolder.  Go Ian!!!  The hike took us about 5 hours all up but the fun wasn’t quite over as we still had to complete the drive down from Oygardstol to the tiny hamlet of Lysebotn.  This side of the mountain is a real roller-coaster with narrow roads and 27 hairpin bends ending with a tunnel that winds back on itself 340° through the mountain.  Driving down in second gear, we eventually arrived in Lysebotn accompanied by a burning rubber smell indicating that we had just decreased the lifespan of our new brake pads by about 6 months.  We booked into a small campground cabin on the edge of the Lysefjord, took our boots off and gazed out at yet another of Norway’s mind-blowing vistas.

RYFYLKE SCENIC ROUTE

trolltungen

The 260 km Ryfylke scenic route runs north from Oanes on the Lysefjord to Roldal and is a spectacular drive with non-stop mind-blowing views of fjords, forests, lush farmland and sheer cliffs, culminating with an exhilerating trip across the Roldalsfjellet mountains. The Ryfylke route extends to about 60 km from the trailhead for another of Norway’s famous hikes, Trolltungen (The Troll’s Tongue). The easter egg at the end of this gruelling hike is the opportunity to stand on the unique rock formation that is 700m above lake Ringedalsvatnet.  The hike is more than a 20 km round trip with some decent ascents and descents to keep you interested and Leroy decided to give this one a miss.  Feeling like we had been given a hall pass we drove from the pretty town of Odda (hiker’s hub) to Skjeggedal carpark where a shuttle took us up to the main trailhead.  As on previous hikes, the terrain was steep sheets of granite rock and loose gravel pathways, although this time the challenge was more about the length of the hike rather than the difficulty.  As on the other hikes, the weather was perfect and we arrived at the Tongue where there were about 50 or so people gathered around enjoying the amazing views before setting out on the long haul back.  With so few people around there was no waiting to get onto the protruding rock which was a walk in the park compared to stepping onto Kjerbolten as it was about 5m wide and conveniently sloped upward, I expect it would have been a different experience again if it was sloping the other way!  Over the course of the day we caught snatches of conversation in Spanish, Italian, French, Russian and Portuguese and despite the arduous hike saw many, many smiling faces.

With the Bessenger Ridge Hike still to do we filled Bob up with water and fuel, stocked the fridge and mapped a route that would take us over Sognefjellsveien, the highest mountain pass in northern Europe, a route that would also give us the chance to spot the Musk Ox in Dovrefjell National Park, one of the few places in the world where you can see one of the oldest mammals on earth.  Travelling through this middle area of Norway is a bit like making your way through a maze, the complex topography of steep mountains and long, finger-like fjords demands slow progress but it would be difficult to be impatient when around every bend another spectacular vista appears, unless of course, you happen to be in a tunnel.  There are over 1,100 tunnels in Norway with a total length exceeding 1000 km and I would dare to venture that nobody builds tunnels as well as the Norwegians and these are not your average tunnels where you are in and out almost before you have had time to turn your lights on.  Tunnels here are kilometres long often resembling fairy grottos with their rough-hewn sides, low arched ceilings and intermittent purple-blue lights.  They are not always easy to drive through as some are badly lit and narrow and there have certainly been days when it feels like we have driven through a few too many, but it was a thrill to drive through the longest road tunnel in the world, the Laerdal Tunnel, which is on the Aurlandsfjellet Scenic Route and stretches for an amazing 24.5 km and also a couple of shorter tunnels (12 km) where a blue-lit roundabout suddenly appeared.  A surreal experience, almost a sense of glimpsing into a futuristic subterranean world not too unlike that of the Matrix.

Approaching the beginning of the road that would take us over the pass, Google maps suddenly announced that the road was closed?!!!!  Oh, this seemed a little odd, even taking into account the increasing number of reflective snow poles lining the sides of the road, as we hadn’t yet seen any snow. We decided to continue on in case there was some kind of mistake, but just a bit further along there was a road closed sign which pretty much confirmed the road was closed and further indicated that it wouldn’t be opening for another two days.  A bit disappointed, we mapped out a more circuitous route and set off doing our best to convince ourselves that things could be worse.  Couldn’t they just?!  Attempting to shift down a gear to continue up yet another steep hill Bob suddenly had no gears, neutral was the only option available, leaving us with no choice other than to freewheel back down the hill until we had an opportunity to roll into someone’s yard and wait for the tow truck.  We were subsequently towed just 7 km to the nearest garage where the mechanic reluctantly climbed into the driver’s seat, started up Bob and declared that he wasn’t able to help us due to lack of time, lack of parts and, without doubt, lack of motivation.  On the one hand, thank goodness we weren’t stuck on the top of the highest mountain in Scandinavia but on the other we were still up in the Norwegian mountains with poor Bob not going anywhere and the nearest Land Rover garage over 500km away.  We set up camp at the back of the garage and considered our options.  The following morning, a Saturday, we spoke to the Land Rover dealership in Trondheim who assured us that they would have a look at Bob first thing Monday morning – we just had to get him there.  So we contacted the tow truck company again and arranged that they would take Bob and all of us to Trondheim on Sunday for the bargain price of 3,500 Euros!!!!!  What can you do?  We had contacted various Land Rover clubs asking about independent mechanics and parts suppliers which had got us nowhere, Google wasn’t coming up with anything remotely helpful and Bob wasn’t going to fix himself. 

ODDVAR TO THE RESCUE

11am on Sunday morning Oddvar turned up with his red truck and some of our grievance at handing over such a large sum of money to his bosses was erased as we found ourselves in the care of one of the friendliest, helpful people you could wish to meet.  By midday we were on our way, Oddvar was obviously driving, Bob was on the flatbed and the three of us were in Bob.   It was certainly a different experience, perhaps a bit similar to being part of a coach trip, as Oddvar stopped at lots of lookout points and bakeries and kept us well informed as to the passing scenery.  Nine hours it took to reach Trondheim and it was after 9pm by the time Bob had been deposited directly outside the workshop entrance, there was no way another vehicle was going to be entering the workshop before us unless they first pushed Bob out of the way!  We said our goodbyes to Oddvar (who was faced with another 9 hour drive to get back), pushed the roof up and went to bed.  We were woken early the next day when employees started arriving at 6.40 am which seemed rather early but acted as an excellent incentive to get out of bed and have breakfast whilst waiting for the workshop to open at 8am.  True to their word, once Bob had been pushed inside, diagnostics were done and it was confirmed that the clutch was kaput and, on closer inspection, it turned out there was a problem with the gear box as well.  The necessary parts were ordered from Denmark and five days later we were back on the road, definitely a bit poorer but blissfully unaware that the mechanic had forgotten to tighten all of the connections to the battery!  It’s always the way isn’t it?  You break down in the most inconvenient of locations in one of the most expensive countries in the world where Land Rover parts and decent vehicle mechanics are harder to find than mythical Trolls (more about these mystical creatures in Part II).

just another day in NORWAY

Bob arrived in the UK at the beginning of May and two weeks later another Land Rover made the same trip – Sydney to Southampton.  We know this because a helicopter pilot from Australia popped up on Instagram with details of his intention to drive all the way to the North Cape.  Unlike us, he drove from Southampton directly to Norway and then made his way north all the way to the top where he claimed to be “the only Australian registered vehicle to have travelled so far north on the planet at 71° past the Equator”.   Up until we read his post our main objective whilst in Norway was to see the Northern Lights, now however it seems that Bob has something to prove and despite winter fast approaching we have our sights set firmly on Nordkopp.